Restaurant Review
by Steve Hollier.
The dining area
Sitting beside Kelvin Chong and Nemik Sirafilov as we amiably drank tea together, I was struck by how well the culinary skills of the chef were complimented by the organisational abilities of the restaurant manager. I quickly came to the conclusion that this teamwork is what makes dining at the newly refurbished Dragon restaurant on Samad Vurghun Street an exemplary and delightful experience.
Chef Kelvin Chong
Kelvin grew up in the restaurant business; helping his parents with their family concern in Malaysia from a young age. “We specialised in sea food cooking and I developed my skills very early” he told me. These were clearly of a high order as he soon moved to the prestigious Shangri La hotel in Singapore and then on to the Pan-Asian restaurant Cocoon in Piccadilly, central London when he was only twenty-two. Later, Kelvin moved to the Goldfish restaurant on Hampstead High Street where he won the Ham and High Best Chef of the Year award in 2005. From here, he continued his professional education in Paris and internships at the Hilton and at the Ritz á Paris, under Executive Chef des cuisines Michel Roth. Further international work followed until two months ago, when Kelvin moved to Baku to oversee the re-launch of his current establishment.
Restaurant Manager Nemik Sirafilov
Nemik is a native of Baku who like Kelvin, grew up in the food service industry. He and his two older brothers started a teashop together, when he was in his teens. He has been working for the Pasha Group since 2005, and is now responsible for ensuring that diners enjoy complete satisfaction at the Dragon restaurant. Nemik sees hospitality as a tool for communication but realises that it is important for the staff to maintain a professional distance from the diners. He too has international experience having worked in various capacities in “White” Russia”, Ukraine and Turkey.
Together Kelvin and Nemik have helped to reshape the kitchen and improve the décor under the guidance of project manager Jeremy Bastiaan. The most important changes however, have been the ones that are not material but profoundly affect the dining experience. These all relate to the training of staff both in the kitchen and at the tables. Now all staff members have a better understanding of international standards of presentation, and the concept of “customer service”.
“When diners come here for the first time, they are sometimes surprised by what they consider the smallness of the portions” continued Kelvin. “My idea is to make modern Chinese cuisine using traditional cooking methods, combined with European presentation. The challenge in Azerbaijan is to show our clients how to enjoy the food we present to them”.
Sitting in the elegant dining room, I was impressed by the muted colours, contemporary design and general elegance of the environment. A venue that would not be out of place in Paris, New York or London.
Homemade Smoked Salmon with Wasabi
I began my meal with an item from the “tasting menu” and something that will certainly become Kelvin’s signature dish; home smoked salmon with wasabi. This starter is smoked “at the table” under a glass dome filled with aromatic wood smoke. The swirling smoke, introduced through a hole in the side of the cover, provides a unique flavour to both the fresh salmon and the green salad garnish.
Lifting the lid, my waiter allowed the smoke to puff into the air, immediately filling my nostrils with the smells of woodland in autumn. The wood smoke provided a tang to the garnish of lettuce and Granny Smith apple, enhanced by the fresh wasabi created flavours so subtle and far gentler than I had ever experienced. The salmon was succulent and melted in my mouth, opening up my taste buds for the delights to come.
Crispy Aromatic Duck
I thought I knew everything there was to know about crispy aromatic duck, having eaten it at Chinese restaurants since I was seven years old, but I was wrong. Served on a thin slice of watermelon and topped with a salad garnish, this was something profoundly different. Have you have heard of food combining? It is the process whereby you put two unlikely foodstuffs together to astonish your taste buds. Here was an example you will remember for a long time.
The very crispy duck is rich and flavoursome, the watermelon fresh and light. Separately they are good, together made me cry out loud “oh my God”. Try it and see what you think…
Chilean Sea Bass
Glazed and marinated with two red wines, the sea bass is served with edamama beans, spinach and asparagus. The first thing to mention is the aroma of the marinade. It comes off the plate as strongly as the smell of an approaching storm in summer. Rich and dark, I was salivating before it touched my lips. The sea bass is fresh and meaty, looking more like steak than a piece of fish. When you cut into it however, the “meat” is white and flaky, filling your mouth with succulent flavour.
Wagyu Sirloin Beef
Recently discovered by western gourmets, Japanese Wagyu meat, also known as ‘Kobe’-style beef, has enjoyed increasing popularity over the past few years. It is considered by many to be the most tender, most succulent and tastiest meat in the world. According to Wikipedia “meat from wagyū cattle is known worldwide for its marbling characteristics, increased eating quality through a naturally enhanced flavour, tenderness and juiciness, and thus a high market value”. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wagy%C5%AB
Sourced from Australia, Kelvin’s wagya sirloin is dark, marbled and finely textured. If you have eaten good steak before that has a delicacy of flavour and melts in the mouth, then you will love this dish. My advice is that you should not order it “well done” because much of the flavour is in the marbling, and cooking at a high temperature will sear it out. A well cooked piece of Wagyu Sirloin beef (like any other high quality steak) should be brown on the outside, shading to pink in the middle.
Lemongrass Panacotta
Have you ever seen food on your plate that you think by right should be hanging on the wall of an art gallery? No, then you haven’t seen Kelvin’s lemongrass panacotta.
Panna cotta comes from the Italian for cooked cream, and is a dessert made by simmering together cream, milk and sugar. It is then mixed with gelatine and allowed to cool until it is set. It is often served with wild berries, caramel, chocolate sauce or fruit coulis; a thick sauce made from puréed and strained fruits.
Kelvin’s panacotta was smooth and creamy, delicately decorated with touches of coulis and a tiny sprig of mint. The fruits were gorgeous, ripe and full of taste. I particularly enjoyed the granadilla or passion fruit. I lived in Namibia prior to coming to Azerbaijan, where they grew in profusion in my garden. Taking a spoonful into my mouth, I was once again transported; this time to hot, dry Africa; sitting on my stoop as the sun went down.
If you are looking for an evening of sophisticated eating in an elegant environment, try Dragon and be transported to new worlds by the food on the end of your fork.
…And (importantly) the Mont Auriol merlot I quaffed with my meal was an additional treat. It is from their excellent cellar of 150 choice wines from France, Italy, Spain, Chile, Australia and the United States.
Open for business lunches from 12 noon until 3pm
Dinner Menu: 6pm until 11pm every day
Telephone enquiries: +994-12493 1221
